Taru: Thanks for letting me interview you! Let's get down to business. Have you noticed more women buying jewelry for themselves? What sorts of things are they buying?
Mary: Yes, definitely. Diamonds are still a girl's best friend it seems; right hand rings and diamond stud earrings being the most sought after, especially by women over maybe 28, with their careers well-launched and some disposable income. Most of the younger women are buying sterling silver pieces, good values there.
Taru: When choosing a jeweler, what should girls look for?
Mary: Choose a reputable jeweler; get recommendations from a knowledgeable friend. Look for someone whose business is a member of a trade organization such as American Gem Society (AGS), Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO), Jewelers of America (JA). Not always, but often, a family business that has some generational history will provide the most personalized service and take pride in their ethical standards.
Taru: If there are a few basic things that a woman should educate herself about before shopping for jewelry or gemstones, what are they? Where can they educate themselves?
Mary: When you have chosen a reputable jeweler, he or she should contribute to the educational process. (For me, this is the most fun) Spend some time in the library, go online, take a course from the Gemological Institute of America (well, that's a project), acquaint yourself with the properties of various gemstones to find out which suits your purposes the best - hardness, durability etc. Go to stores and look... a lot (to the frustration of sales associates).
Taru: Is bigger really better when it comes to diamonds?
Mary: At my business, we've never had a diamond returned because it was too big! Sometimes, though, one has to make some adjustments to fit a budget. A colorless or nearly colorless diamond, well cut, clean and sparkling, is a joy to behold in any size large enough to see! Most of us, though, aspire to the magical One Carat or more; a clarity grade of SI-1 to SI-2 is fine if no flaws are visible to the naked eye, and helps to keep the price down. After all, no one, hopefully, is going to come up to you at a party with a microscope to admire your new diamond. Color is something that you can judge with your own eye to a great degree, and cut has everything to do with how much light is returned as brilliance, sparkle, and fire.
Taru: What trends are you seeing in fine jewelry right now? What's the "hot" stone?
Multicolor sapphires in beautifully crafted strip bracelets, with earrings and pendants to match. (Sapphires can be any color as long as they're not red. When they're red they are rubies, same mineral, corundum.) Tanzanites are also popular, but too many pale ones are being sold on QVC etc; they are a variety of zoisite, heated to a lovely deep periwinkle blue, and they are somewhat fragile. And diamonds have never stopped being the rage.
For Fall, bronzy oranges, yellows, and reds, in stones like tourmaline, garnet, sapphires, and agates. Freshwater pearls are being shown in similar colors. Don't use the term "semi precious" - I hate it. Any stone beautiful enough to be used in jewelry is precious!
Taru: Any thoughts about antique or estate jewelry? Do you have any specific advice for this type of purchase?
Mary: Often exquisitely made in an era when there was more time and pride in workmanship, these pieces can be a real find, but also might be in a poor state of repair. So before you purchase you heart's desire, have your jeweler check it out for safety and wearability. The Edwardian and Art Deco pieces are my favorites.
Taru: When should you get your jewelry appraised and how do you find a good
appraiser?
Mary: I presume you are talking about insurance appraisals. When you purchase an important piece, your jeweler should give you a gratis appraisal. Check with your insurance company to see up to what amount you are covered in your regular household policy. You will need pieces itemized in a separate "rider" for valuables above a certain amount. Then you need an appraisal for those items. Every 8 years or so should be sufficient for updating; some insurance companies send reminders.
Look for an appraiser who is a gemologist - GG (Graduate Gemologist), or FGA (Fellow, Gemological Association of Great Britain) Being certified by the American Gem Society is a plus, as is being a member of a jewelry appraiser's association, such as NAJA, the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers. Years of experience are also a big help!
Taru: Mom, thanks so much for your time. You rock (pun intended).
If you’re thinking of investing in fine jewelry, don’t go anywhere until you read this.
Mary Hlne is a Graduate Gemologist (GG) who has been in the jewelry business for about 33 years. She began her career at FJ Cooper in Philadelphia, and then worked for the Gemological Institute of America, Charles Schwartz in Washington DC, and Everhart Jewelers in Mclean, VA. In addition, she completed a silversmithing apprenticeship at MN Thune in Oslo, Norway. Since she and Antti, her husband of 40 years, moved to a more relaxed life on Virginia’s Chesapeake Bay, Mary has enjoyed 12 years as resident appraiser at Ross's Rings & Things in Kilmarnock, VA, where she occasionally talks her loving daughter Taru into buying diamond jewelry. When not elbow-deep in gemstones, Mary is a competitive Master’s swimmer, classical music buff, and enthusiastic gardener. She is an alumna of Mt. Holyoke College.
Taru recently sat down with her to get some insider secrets for stylethread readers (and to find out what her mother has really been doing all these years…).
